Two lakes, a forest, a border and Fitz Roy at the end.
One or two days, on foot or by bike, along a route almost nobody knows. We make it possible every season, with local families and real partners.
andThe crossing links the end of the Carretera Austral with El Chaltén via Paso Dos Lagunas. You do it on foot or by bike, with two boat crossings and a border in the middle of the forest.
With the full crossing, you walk, ride and take it all in. The e-bikes, the boats, the night in Candelario, the luggage and the plan for when the lake says no: we handle all of that.
This is what the route from Villa O'Higgins to El Chaltén feels like, told by those of us who travel it every season.
There's something special about the night before. You arrive in Villa O'Higgins, the last town on the Carretera Austral, and tomorrow's journey is already in the air. You spend that night in one of our micro-refuges, at Pachi's campsite, the first to believe in this idea. Outside, the forest. Inside, a warm light, a mate and the map spread open on the table.
More than 1,200 km of Carretera Austral to get here
Many people dream of this photo for years. You arrive by bike: 7 km from town to the point where the Carretera Austral ends at the lake. The e-bike gives you just enough of a push to enjoy every bend, at your own pace and all together. And when you're finally there, with the water ahead and the road behind you, you understand why this is a once-in-a-lifetime ride.
7 km of gravel · by e-bike or in the Ruedas minibus
Below the hull there are 836 meters of water. On either side, mountains drop straight into the lake. Lake O'Higgins is shared by two countries (on the other side they call it San Martín) and it has a temper: the wind comes down off the Southern Patagonian Ice Field and changes it within minutes. That's why no two crossings are the same. With your bike on board and your eyes wide open, the wildest part of the journey begins.
About 1 h 45 min · departs 07:30 from Puerto Bahamondes
You step off the boat and time changes pace. Candelario Mancilla is home to the pioneer family, Ricardo and his family, and right beside them are the SURí micro-refuges. There's time for a mate, for a chat, for looking at the lake with no rush. For us it's our place in the world: in 2020 we set out from here on the first e-bike crossing, and every time we come back the same thing happens. It's hard to leave. We recommend spending at least one night here and waking up with the lake right before your eyes.
Exit from Chile with Carabineros · night at the family's home, campsite or micro-refuge
This is the part people talk about most afterwards. The climb from Candelario, the forest closing in, the marker that shows the border and the photo everyone wants. On the Argentine side the road turns into a trail: mud, roots, streams, and sometimes you're pushing the bike. Many arrive muddy up to their knees and with the biggest smile of the whole trip.
Maximum gradient 19.8% · luggage travels by horse
After two hours of forest, the trail opens up at the northern tip of Lago del Desierto and there it is, in the distance, playing among the clouds. It's one of those moments when the whole group goes quiet. Or shouts. There's still the last boat crossing to go, with glaciers hanging on either side, but you already know it: you made it. And that peak, which so many see from the road, you watched it come to you.
45 min by boat · entry to Argentina with Gendarmería
Almost everyone arrives by road. You arrive after 123 km, two lakes and a border, with Fitz Roy growing ahead of you over the last few kilometers. The first time we did this crossing, in 2018, Javi came with his son Nacho. They arrived changed, and SURí was born from that trip.
37 km of gravel from the southern tip
Ruedas de la Patagonia has been sailing Lake O'Higgins since 2016. Together we designed the crossing, and we sell it and run it together, improving it every season. They're currently building a new, larger boat to operate more reliably on the lake.
«We're Marcus and Angélica, and our kids. A Villa O'Higgins family that lives looking out at this lake. I'm the old captain, or so they say. Angélica is the angel who looks after us. Since 2016 we've been taking travelers to Candelario Mancilla, and also to the O'Higgins Glacier. What we like most is that, on board, everyone feels at home. Even if the home rocks a little.»
Some come aboard with a backpack, others with their bike, and the lake is the same for everyone. During the crossing you'll see mountains dropping into the water, the forest and that color unlike any other. We've known this lake all our lives, and that's why we respect it: when the wind says not today, we wait together. When it says yes, there's no better way to cross.
Also with us are the Levicán family in Candelario Mancilla and Exploradores Lago del Desierto on the Argentine side.
It's the route you've just read about, from Villa O'Higgins to El Chaltén or the other way round, without having to coordinate anything. We have no fixed departures: we build it around your dates, your pace and your group.
With the full crossing, the waiting night is taken care of: you spend it in Villa O'Higgins or in Candelario Mancilla, depending on where you are, and it's already accounted for.
If you'd rather book only the boat crossing, that's possible too. In that case, accommodation, transfers and the other legs are up to you.
Just the gravel and the climb? We have e-bikes on request between Villa O'Higgins and the border marker, in both directions.
Coming from El Chaltén and heading north? In Villa O'Higgins, a riding SURí e-bike is waiting for you to ride the Carretera Austral. See routes and e-bikes
Coming by vehicle? We keep it in the Ruedas de la Patagonia parking lot while you cross. Let us know when you book.
I want the full crossingThe Lake O'Higgins boat leaves at 07:30 from Puerto Bahamondes and returns at 17:00 from Candelario Mancilla, on the same days. It's best to be at the pier 45 minutes early.
| Months | Boat days |
|---|---|
| November and December | Mondays and Thursdays |
| January and February | Mondays, Thursdays and Saturdays |
| March | Mondays and Thursdays |
It depends on how many of you there are, whether you do the full crossing or just the boat, and what you add: e-bike, a night in Candelario, luggage porterage. Tell us your dates and how many are going, and we'll send you a detailed proposal.
One or two days, depending on your pace, the weather and whether you spend the night in Candelario Mancilla. The Lake O'Higgins crossing takes about 1 h 45 min, depending on the wind, and the Lago del Desierto crossing about 45 minutes.
Yes. On Lake O'Higgins the bike travels included, at no extra cost, but space is limited: tell us you're bringing it when you book. Hand it over without the panniers, which travel inside the boat. On the trail, depending on the section, you ride or push.
Yes, and the trek is beautiful. Between Candelario Mancilla and the border you can go on foot, by e-bike, on horseback with Ricardo or by transfer in the local settler's pickup, as far as the border marker. From the marker to Lago del Desierto you continue on foot through the forest. Everyone chooses how to do it: that freedom is part of what makes the place special.
Together with Ruedas, we take care of the combined booking (Chile and Argentina) so you don't have to worry about it. Keep in mind that January and February are busier and space on each boat is limited: the earlier you book, the more date options you'll have. Booking ahead also lets us warn you sooner if the weather forces a change of day.
To leave Chile via Paso Dos Lagunas you need a safe-conduct permit from the PDI. It's free, you apply online between 24 and 48 hours before crossing, and it's individual: each traveler applies for their own. Your exit is registered with Carabineros in Candelario Mancilla and your entry to Argentina with Gendarmería at Lago del Desierto. Keep your valid ID card or passport to hand.
The route is the same, in reverse. What changes is that you have to reach Candelario Mancilla in time for the 17:00 boat, on a sailing day. That's why, in this direction, spending the night in Candelario is usually the best idea.
If you're reasonably active, yes: it's moderate. There's climbing, mud and stretches of trail, and an e-bike makes it accessible to more people. Kids can do it with their parents, always accompanied and with their paperwork in order.
A windproof, waterproof jacket, layers, a hat, gloves, closed shoes, water and something to eat. And your safe-conduct permit and documents to hand, not at the bottom of your backpack.
Candelario Mancilla is the pioneer family's home and a Carabineros post. That's it, and that's the charm. Sometimes there's no phone signal; if you're staying there, you can ask Ricardo for wifi. Bring cash in Chilean pesos, because cards don't always work, precisely because there's no signal. Whatever can be paid in advance, better. There's no coverage on the lake either, so let people at home know before you set off.
In the Ruedas de la Patagonia parking lot, in Villa O'Higgins. Let us know before you travel and your vehicle stays parked while you cross.
El Chaltén is Argentina's trekking capital: most people stay a few days hiking before moving on. From there you can head to El Calafate and its airport, go back to Chile or continue south to Tierra del Fuego. If you need transport for the next leg, we'll share contacts and help you coordinate it.
Along the Carretera Austral from Coyhaique or Cochrane, crossing Mitchell Fjord by ferry barge, by bus from Cochrane or by ferry from Puerto Natales. We explain it all in how to get to Villa O'Higgins.
Ruedas de la Patagonia and SURí, together with the partners on each leg.
Details on the boat crossing and the safe-conduct permit are in the Ruedas de la Patagonia crossing guide.
Tell us when you're thinking of traveling, how many of you there are and whether you're going on foot or by bike. Someone from the team will reply, from Villa O'Higgins.
Choose how to start the conversation:
We're at the end of the Carretera Austral: sometimes the signal takes a while, but we reply as soon as we have it. Also at +56 9 6142 0490.
